How to Build a Pergola – Step by Step: Sizes, Timber, Footings and Costs

A pergola is the ideal first timber-building project: manageable in scale, achievable over a few weekends, and with a big impact in the garden. This guide takes you from dimensions through timber choice, foundations and structural basics to the correct assembly order – with practical guide values for cross-sections and costs.

Planning: dimensions, location and permissions

Start by settling on the length, width and height. A footprint of 3 × 4 m with a clear height of 2.20 to 2.50 m is a common starting point – any lower and the space quickly feels cramped, any higher and both the material bill and the wind loading increase. For a seating area for six people, allow at least 3 × 3 m; for a dining table plus barbecue zone, plan closer to 3.5 × 5 m. Also think about the path of the sun: a pergola to the south-west of the patio casts shade in the afternoon and evening – exactly when you need it most.

Freestanding or attached to the house?

A freestanding pergola stands on four or six posts and needs bracing in both directions. The lean-to version is fixed to the facade via a wall plate (ledger) – that saves two posts, but demands sound load-bearing masonry and a properly sealed junction with the wall.

Do you need planning permission?

In many areas, open, unroofed pergolas below a certain size can be built without formal approval. The thresholds vary considerably between countries and local councils, however, as do the rules for building close to the property boundary. In England, for example, the permitted-development rules for outbuildings limit anything within 2 m of the boundary to a height of 2.5 m. Check with your local building authority before you start – the local regulations are always what counts, not general figures found online.

Choosing your timber: larch, Douglas fir or structural spruce?

For a structure that stands outdoors permanently, the natural durability of the timber matters just as much as the price. Here are the most common options at a glance. The prices come from a sample of online timber merchants in Germany in September 2026 (12 × 12 cm sections, single lengths including VAT, excluding delivery); they vary considerably by supplier, finish and cut length:

Structural solid timber (KVH) in spruce is usually the cheapest option and very dimensionally stable, but it absolutely needs constructive timber protection and regular recoating. Douglas fir and larch get by with far less maintenance. Pressure-treated timber is tough but looks more utilitarian, and freshly cut surfaces have to be re-treated with preservative.

Cross-sections and structure: guide values for sizing

For an open pergola without a solid roof covering, the following cross-sections are common: posts 12 × 12 cm (from around 2.5 m in height, or with heavy climbing plants, better 14 × 14 cm), purlins 8 × 16 to 10 × 20 cm, rafters 6 × 12 to 8 × 16 cm at 50–70 cm centres. Knee braces cut from 8 × 8 cm timber, fitted at 45° and at least 60–80 cm long, stiffen the frame corners. As a rough guide, a 10 × 20 cm purlin should not span more than about 3 m unsupported – for larger bays, add an extra post in between.

Important: these figures are rough guide values for an open, unloaded pergola. As soon as you plan a solid roof of glass or twin-wall polycarbonate, a large surface exposed to wind, or heavy climbers such as wisteria, the loads change significantly. Snow and wind load zones also vary by region – when in doubt, have the sizing checked by a structural engineer or carpenter.

Foundations: concrete pad footings and post anchors

Pergola posts should never go straight into the ground – there they will rot within a few years. The standard solution is concrete pad footings with cast-in H-post anchors or bolt-down post bases:

• Pad footing: one hole per post, roughly 40 × 40 cm and around 80 cm deep (founded below the frost line). That works out at about 125 litres of concrete, i.e. roughly ten 25 kg bags of ready-mix concrete per footing.
• H-post anchor: set into the wet concrete and aligned plumb. It lifts the end grain off the concrete so that no water stands there. The underside of the post sits at least 30 cm above ground level over hard surfaces such as paving; where a gravel strip or a surface with at least a 2 % fall reduces splashback, 15 cm is enough. If the anchor alone does not reach that height, let the footing stand proud of the ground accordingly.
• Bolt-down post base: the right choice on existing concrete slabs or patios – fixed with heavy-duty anchor bolts, with the post standing on a spacer to keep standing water away.

As a rule of thumb, let the concrete set for at least three days before assembly – closer to a week in cool weather – and follow the instructions on the bag; it only reaches its full strength after around 28 days.

Assembly step by step

With the material prepared and a helper on hand, the pergola goes up in one to two weekends:

1. Setting out: mark the footprint with string lines and measure the diagonals. At 3 × 4 m, each diagonal must be exactly 5.00 m – then the layout is perfectly square.
2. Footings: dig the holes, pour the concrete, set the H-post anchors plumb and let everything cure.
3. Standing the posts: insert the posts, plumb them in both directions with a spirit level and bolt them to the anchors with M10 or M12 coach bolts. Prop them with temporary battens until further assembly.
4. Fitting the purlins: lay the cross beams on top, check the heights and connect them rigidly to the posts with half-lap joints or angle brackets.
5. Setting the rafters: fit the rafters at even 50–70 cm centres – traditionally with a notched (birdsmouth) seat cut, or with rafter-to-purlin framing anchors.
6. Bracing: fit the knee braces at 45° between posts and purlins. Only then will the structure stand firm against wind loads.
7. Timber protection: apply a stain or oil, taking particular care over cut edges and end grain.

Costs: what should you budget for?

With the sections given above – depending on the layout four to six posts, two purlins, six to ten rafters and eight to twelve knee braces – a 3 × 4 m pergola needs roughly 0.4 to 0.9 m³ of timber. Using the timber prices from the table above, material costs come to roughly €450 to €2,800; the other items are guide values, and regional prices can differ considerably:

For comparison: off-the-shelf kits cost around €800–2,500 depending on size and timber, while a pergola built by a joiner or carpenter usually comes to €3,000–6,000. Compared with a tradesperson, building it yourself saves a substantial amount; compared with a kit, mainly when you choose inexpensive timber – provided you plan carefully and buy neither too much nor too little material.

Avoiding common mistakes

• Burying posts directly in the ground or setting them in concrete – trapped moisture rots the timber from below.
• Forgetting the bracing: without knee braces or diagonal struts, the pergola wobbles in every gust of wind.
• Undersizing the cross-sections even though climbing plants are meant to grow over it later – a mature wisteria can quickly put several hundred kilograms onto the structure.
• Leaving end grain unprotected: post caps or angled cuts shed rainwater.
• Not allowing for offcuts and waste – add a 5–10% margin to your timber list.

Plan first and calculate your materials precisely

The best safeguard against buying the wrong material is a true-to-scale plan before you order the first piece of timber. If you work out the posts, purlins, rafters and knee braces in advance, you will spot clashes and awkward lengths before they cost time and money on site. With regular care, such as a fresh coat of stain every two to four years, your pergola will last for decades.

Sources and standards

• Eurocode 5 – design of timber structures (European Commission, JRC)
• Planning Portal – outbuildings and permitted development
• Informationsdienst Holz – timber protection for engineered timber buildings: clearance of exposed post bases above ground
• proHolz Austria – canopies, pergolas and fences: clearance above the ground (German)
• German Wood Protection Association – durability classes and use classes (German)

Standards are not free to read and are named here for verification only. What applies is always the edition in force at the building location.